Loco-ism @ Jordon River
7:00 am. New Spot. New Province. Head down, black wetsuit, white board- no drama. Humble. Sit on the peak. Quiet. Alone. No talking. Just surf.
7:15 am. Sun rises.
7:45 am. Crowded now. Paddle battles. Egos. I move. Too much drama. I hear yelling. Paddle way down the point. Alone. Quiet. Humble. Catch some waves. Shut up. Surf.
9:00 am. Crowd has figured out this peak is working. Shit. Locals move in. I sit. Quiet. Humble. They slither and snake around me. Locals. Paddle from 50m away to sit so close the can touch me. Steal the inside. Locals. Show respect. Be humble. I concede. Take no waves. Wait. Humble.
9:30 am. Still waiting. Locals. They snake the inside. ‘Too deep’ isn’t deep enough any more. Locals. Drama. Egos. Wave coming. I somehow got the inside. I paddle. Local screams:
" I will ‘f*%$ing drop in you kook! I will F$%*ing drop in on you! Any wave you take I will drop in on you!"
"What did I do to you?" I ask
"Get the F%^& out of the water!!!" Replies. Veins bulge.
Wave wasted. No one gets it. I wait. Humble. Say nothing. No drama. Shut up. Surf.
Wave comes he misses it. I take it. Get covered up. Fun. Long ride. Someone says "sick wave man". There is hope. Etiquette. Karma. Decency. Hope.
10:00 am Back to the peak. Locals. Wait. Sit. Humble. They snake. I wait.
10:15 am. Set wave. No one is going. I look. Take the drop. Shit. Someone was on it. Hop off right away. Ruined his wave. He yells. And yells and yells and yells.
Two of his friends paddle over. They yell.
"WTF is wrong with you! You F#$%ing idiot…." They go on. I have them in stereo.
"I’m sorry. Looked- couldn’t see him." They hear nothing. I am less than human.
10:20 am. Now I see who I dropped in on. It’s the guy who told me he would drop in on me.
Karma. Hope. Decency.